Trondheim lies at 63degrees north, about the same latitude as Fairbanks Alaska...somewhat below the Arctic Circle. The relatively warm waters of the Gulf Stream create a climate favorable to agriculture. Along the Trondheim fjord are large verdant pastures and fields of potatoes and grains.
But the climate is more typified by rain, snow, and cold, cloudy weather. So the brief summer (late June through mid-August) is tremendously important as a time when bright sunshine and blue skies break through the rain clouds. Keith our American friend who lives here tells us that further north people will stop their cars if the sun comes out strong and will get out and just raise their fair faces to capture some of the precious rays.
Now the sun is at its high point, setting at about 11:30 at night and coming up at 3:00 am. But the sky is bright throughout the night…it never becomes dark. Which I have found is great for driving because you never have to worry about driving in the dark. But of course this is all reversed in winter when the sun is up only up for three or so hours a day.
And so, to encourage the sun, we celebrate St. Hans’ Eve on the 23rd of June (almost exactly half way from Christmas). Bonfires are lit; traditional sour cream porridge is eaten (but others have hot dogs); and dances are held. We attended such an affair at Sverresborg, an outdoor folk museum, just outside the center of Trondheim. Once lit, the pyre of wood blazed and, then, fell over. This did nothing to quell the crowd’s enjoyment of the evening sunshine and the sense that summer had again returned for its brief but very anticipated appearance.
