The Skaggerak is the narrow waterway that separates Norway and Denmark...it is a strait known for its violent currents as the North Sea and the eastern waters of the Baltic meet. In both world wars, the Skagerrak was strategically very important for Germany. One of the biggest sea battles of World War I, the Battle of Jutland, also known as the Battle of the Skagerrak, took place there May 31 to June 1, 1916. The importance of controlling this waterway, the only natural access to the Baltic, provided the motivation for the German invasion of Denmark and Norway during World War II.
But today it separates mainly tourists and truckers from easy access to the wild beauty of Norway and the highways of mainland Europe. It also separates Norwegians from the much lower prices of European goods, wine and alcohol. So the ferry, 9 stories high, 2 decks for cars and 2 for trucks, contains duty free shops, cafeterias, lounges, reserved seating with free movies, business class, cabins, bars and everything needed for the 3 1/2 hours of the crossing from Kristiansand to Hirtshalls on the north shore of Jultand. Like all transport lines, they sell more tickets than they have seats so people line the corridors, sleep under stairways, and sit in stairwells...a kind of 20th century counterpart to steerage class.
But standing on the rear deck in the cold wind as we pulled away from the Norwegian shore in the distance I saw a three masted sailing ship making its way along the coast. Very faint against grey sky, a narrow ridge of hills, and the dark sea. But there it was...almost ghost like slowing moving to the west. Perhaps going to Kristiansand where in a few weeks a three masted ships' race was scheduled. Or perhaps just a reminder of the ships my grandfather captained in the last days of the sailing ships in the 19th century.
